On an early morning in April we make our way to the silence, to the villages. You can find them just a few kilometers from the beaches of the Costa Brava in the small medieval villages of the Empordà. Here the clocks beat slower.
In search of silence
In an elderly Mercedes we meander comfortably between wide meadows and olive groves past a mumbling herd of sheep. The infinity of the southern sky shines above us. Today, less speed is more: more impression, more experience, more enjoyment. Always online, always available – today we are not. The world is spinning faster and faster every day, times of rest have become rare. It is all the more important to rediscover the silence. Deceleration is on our program. Breathless through space and time was yesterday. Today we deliberately tinkle slowly through quiet streets, lonely landscapes and dream of the siesta between ancient walls of romantic medieval places.
Villages shrouded in silence
One of those places on our excursion into the silence of past days is Vulpellac. Here a stone castle from the 13th-16th Century over the crooked roofs of the village houses. The church attached to it used to be the castle chapel. We admire flowering tendrils and lush lemon trees. A cat scurries through an archway. The narrow alleys around Burgschloss swallow us and the sunlight for a moment, only to let us free again after just a few minutes. The place is shrouded in morning tranquility. An old man greets the garden gate in a friendly manner.
We are not unnoticed. There are no strangers here at this time of day and time. We are immediately exposed as foreign tourists and are being watched. Can our camera capture the magic of the moment? You better go on a search yourself.
Romantic village jewel
Very close by is the town of Canapost with its beautiful Romanesque church dedicated to St. Stefan. From here it goes on to Peratallada. The village is considered a jewel and is very popular in summer. Even today, in this walled village, which shines with the original medieval structure, we are not entirely alone.
In the parking lot in front of the town, no fee has to be paid and we find a relaxed place between the few first tourists parked. Peratallada is dominated by its castle and the Romanesque church of Sant Esteve. The crooked alleys and enchanted squares of the village invite you to stroll. In the old town center you will find numerous small restaurants now housed in charmingly renovated historic stone houses. Almost all of the few boutiques and small shops in the town are still closed at the moment. We look for a place on one of the terraces between the arcades of the Plaça de les Voltes. It’s time for a few tapas and a glass of cool white wine.
Tapas in the village square
Relaxed, our gaze sweeps across the square. Excitedly, a village dog wafts back and forth. He hopes for a fallen bite. Unfortunately he has little luck. His master whistles him back to the yard. The landlady from across the street looks eagerly for guests. So far, only a few have strayed here for lunch. When the season starts, you’ll beat yourself for the vacant seats. But today you still enjoy the slowness everywhere. Our host is also fully relaxed and peacefully serves the few guests on his sun-drenched terrace. We wanted to slow down, so don’t get excited and stay relaxed. The moment is beautiful and the day still has a lot to offer.
back to reality
After another stroll through the alleys, we decide to take a detour pals to do. Here we are back in commerce. Several coaches have just parked in front of the medieval town. If we hurry, maybe we can still hang out the troops, we think about it. But then it’s over with deceleration and silence. either way. Nevertheless, a view of the Medes Islands and a short tour of the picturesque town must be. Finally, we find a hidden small café away from the hustle and bustle and can end the excursion at a Café Con Leche. The sky slowly turns pink and the sun disappears behind the mountains on the horizon. It’s time for a return to everyday life, hopefully with time for more moments of deceleration.
