Looking for the dream beach or the dream bay
The Costa Brava – theWild Coast“ With its picturesque rocky bays – the “Calas” – attracts in many places with clear water and white houses by the sea and dream beach right in front of the door. Especially out of season there is still one or the other quiet and dreamy bay to discover and many a dream beach.
According to the travel guide Marco Polo, Palafrugell is a capital of beautiful bays and hidden little dream beaches. “From Palafrugell you can reach the three magical fishing towns with an attractive coastal landscape and picturesque sandy bays: Calella de Palafrugell, Llafranc and Tamariu. All three have been able to retain much of their original character, not least because they can only be reached after a winding journey.”
We wanted to trace this fascination and made our way to the small towns of Calella, Llafranc and Tamariu. Of palafrugell Walk the access roads to the three beaches Calella de Palafrugell.
Calella de Palafrugell – Dream Beach with Sea View
Calella stretches across several small, curved sandy bays lined with a promenade, and is the largest of the three coastal villages at Palafrugell. It has a nice town center, and some boutiques attract summer guests with exclusive swimwear. Small restaurants, white facades and blooming bougainvillae provide southern flair. In the former fishing village of Calella, the bourgeoisie from Palafrugell settled early on and gradually transformed the small village into a tourist center on the Costa Brava.
The shining old villas on the Portbó beach then, as now, bear witness to luxury and money. The simple houses in the alleys have also been dressed up. This is how you imagine a small seaside resort by the sea: old villas line the promenade, the small sandy bays in the village are packed with bathing people who are full of bathing people, colorful boats lie in the sand or rocking sluggishly in the sea, there are colorful hustle and bustle in the waterfront restaurants, Everywhere it smells promisingly of grilled sardines.
Havaneres Festival in Calella
Calella is known for his Habanera concerts, which take place here every year. The Cuban Habaneras were introduced by the emigrants. Therefore, the Habaneras texts almost exclusively act on ships and seafarers, dear and lost loving and unfulfilled longings for the land beyond the ocean.
The melancholic chants came to Catalonia from the Caribbean in the 19th century. The mixture of Creole melodies and sad folk music is accompanied by guitar or accordion and has been handed down for generations. The Havaneres Festival has been held in Calella since 1967 and made the place the unofficial capital of Havanera singing. The festival takes place annually on the first Saturday in July and attracts over ten thousand visitors.
High up on the rocky coast
We walk along the bay towards Llafranc. The waves to the right of us are rippling. The promenade soon ends and the path leads up over the rocks. The green roof of an ancient majestic pine tree arches impressively over our heads. Agaves stand in the rock high above the sea, thistles and cacti shine with blooming colors. Seagulls circle in the wind. Rocks, vegetation and azure sea against a blue postcard sky make us forget the effort of the slight climb over the rocks under the midday sun. The path meanders high up on the rocky coast.
To the right of us, beautiful old villas and well-kept gardens always appear. Some properties have a castle-like character. What they all have in common is the fantastic sea view into infinity. We look forward to picturesque views and continue walking down small rock caps into the bay of Llafranc. The delightful walk lasts a maximum of 20 minutes. In ancient times, this path also reached the bays when a ship had sunk. There were places here from which the horizon was observed to prevent pirate raids in time. After the Spanish Civil War, smuggled goods were transported to the country via this path. Today, the path is particularly recommended for a romantic evening walk for two. Then the sun no longer shines with full power, the sky is slowly tinting pastel pink, and the scenery is perfect for a romantic tête-à-tête.
Llafranc – Strolling under shady trees by the sea
Llafranc has only one beach. Here bars, cafés and shops invite you to stroll. Of course you can also live directly on the beach in Llafranc. The Hotel Llafranc was already popular with Dalí. Some originals of the master in the foyer of the house bear witness to this. The main source of income of the inhabitants of Llafranc was fishing, agriculture and coral fishing until the beginning of tourism. Today in Llafranc there is a small port used mainly by pleasure boats.
Mercado de Loco
On the 1st Saturday in September, the “Mercado de Loco” market takes place every year on the Llafranc shoreline, which is shaded by old trees. It is one of the most beautiful small markets in the region. In addition to handicrafts and traditional agricultural products of the region, beautiful antiques and art are also offered by painters from the surrounding area. Llafranc students sell homemade cakes and the entire atmosphere is characterized by relaxed strolling and trading.
Far de Sant Sebastia
From Llafranc, continue towards Tamariu to the Far de Sant Sebastiá lighthouse. It was built in 1857 and is still the most light-strongest tower of the Spanish Mediterranean coast. From here you can see the entire stretch of coast. Simply gorgeous!…
The baroque pilgrimage chapel “Ermita de Sant Sebastià from the 18th century is located on Cape Sant Sebastiá. Next to it is the hotel and restaurant “El Far”. The breathtaking view from the viewing terrace to the Mediterranean Sea, which changes in many different shades of blue, with its rocky bays and caves bordered by pine forests, is fascinated.
Originally, the hotel was once a watch and lighthouse with a hermitage from the 15th century. In 1999, the property was renovated and converted into a beautiful small hotel. Of course, people like to get married in this exposed situation. Even today, the restaurant of the romantic estate is occupied by a large wedding party. Unfortunately, there will be nothing with a café above the sea. We stroll around the hotel and continue our trip to Tamariu.
Tamariu – small dream beach – hidden and idyllic
Tamariú is also the name of the bay into which a torrent flows. It owes its name to the tamarind trees, which together with the pine trees form a dense vegetation. The smallest of three small coastal villages near Palafrugell, just a little south of Begur, has just 90 inhabitants. Tamariu is situated on a rock-framed bay with a small dream beach surrounded by dense pine forests. Buoys and Reusen are leaning against the white walls of the house, and many bathers are now lying on the small sandy beach. The sea is speckled by colorful fishing boats rocking on the waves behind the bathing zone. Of course, this little village has long been “discovered” and a popular destination, especially on summer weekends. In the early and late season, however, Tamariu becomes a dream of all those seeking peace and quiet and romantics.
Excursions on the water to the Caves Cuevas d’en Gispert and de El Bisbe are recommended. Divers also get their money’s worth here. At the end of the village, some frogmen tap over the rocks and disappear upside down in the sea. We get a seat in a beach cafe and watch the hustle and bustle on the beach.
Calella de Palafrugell, Llafranc and Tamariu are regarded as the dream coves of the Costa Brava. In Calella the Cantada d’Havaneres is sung on the beach of Port Bo on the first weekend of July. The key facts are set out here.
Dream coves near Palafrugell at a glance
- Places: Calella de Palafrugell, Llafranc and Tamariu near Palafrugell
- Havaneres: the Cantada d’Havaneres takes place every year on the first weekend of July on the beach of Port Bo in Calella
- History: first held in 1966; according to Explore the Ocean about 30,000 people come every year
- Coastal path: the Camí de Ronda leads from cove to cove, see Camí de Ronda on the Costa Brava
- More on Calella: Calella de Palafrugell: coves and coastal path
Frequently asked questions about the Cantada d’Havaneres
When does the Cantada d’Havaneres take place?
Every year on the first weekend of July.
Where does it take place?
On the beach of Port Bo in Calella de Palafrugell, next to the fishermen’s houses.
Since when has the Cantada d’Havaneres existed?
Since 1966.
Sources: Turisme de Catalunya, Havaneres-Gesang in Calella, Idealista, Cantada d’Havaneres, Explore the Ocean, Cantada d’Havaneres, Freibeuter Reisen, Calella de Palafrugell.
