On the way in the Alta Garrotxa
Today we want that most beautiful canyon of the Garrotxa Along the Riera de Sant Aniol hike through. A paradise with natural pools full of clear, fresh water.
The Garrotxa was once one stronghold of the Trabucaires, of the legendary gangs of robbers who went on a foray from the Hohe Garrotxa in the 19th century. Its members fought for God, tradition and Catalan special rights. After the defeat, they sought shelter in the mountains and relocated to robbery and kidnapping. For a while, they staged themselves quite successfully as Catalan Robin Hoods and demonstratively attacked the governors of the Madrid government and manufacturers.
The former retreat of the bandits is above all today Popular with ambitious hikers and freeclimbers. Many Romanesque Chapels have survived in the Alta Garrotxa. So also the Pilgrimage Church of Sant Aniol d’Aguja, today’s hiking destination.
Here was already in the ninth century Monastery. Later the robbers lived there. Then came anti-francists to sing protest songs on the adjacent mountain meadows. Today, every year Catalans meet with folk dance and mass from this and beyond the French-Spanish border for the summer festival.
The bizarre mountain landscape, with wild waterfalls, steep rocks and deep gorges where crystal clear spring water is bubbling, is a Paradise for nature freaks and mountaineers.
We drive on the N 260 (Figueres-Olot) to Besalú and then follow the signs to Montagut and continue towards Sadernes up to a parking space with information stand behind the Chapel Santa Cecilia de Sadernes. This is where the Marked hiking trail to the source of Sant Aniol. It runs first as a wide, comfortable driveway. Out of the season you can drive a little further into the valley by car, and so the Long hike of five hours shorten something. Unfortunately, we are not granted this today. We are fully challenged and hike quickly past rocks, slopes, meadows, mountain goats, mountaineers and inviting bathing areas up to the pilgrimage church of Sant Aniol d’Aguja next to the crumbling monastery. The way there takes about 2.5 hours. Here we refresh ourselves at the spring and fill up our water supplies. until our further goal – dem Waterfall Salt de Brull – it’s about 15 minutes now. Here, according to the rushing, fresh cold spring water falls into a large rock basin.
A paradise for swimming. The jump into the crystal-clear icy water costs over 30 degrees heat and after the strenuous climbs and descents over rocks and roots only briefly overcoming. You quickly feel like you’re in the wellness temple and want to spend the rest of the day here. But the sun has already passed its zenith, and we would like to have a late lunch at Hostal Masia de Sadernes enjoy in the valley.
So we’re on our way back soon. After the refreshing bath, we’ll make progress faster. Towards the end of the tour, the legs are getting heavier. All water supplies are used up. Finally, the Small Church of Santa Cecilia de Sadernes before us. Next to it, the hostal in Masia is now open. It is now almost 4 p.m. Luckily we get a lunch here late. There are crunchy salads from the garden with goat cheese and then freshly caught crispy trout from the River Sant Aniol. If you don’t like fish, you can order lamb from the grill or slaughterhouse. The fries are self-made and the ice-cold rose wine of the house, sprayed with water, is a fantastic thirst quencher after the strenuous hiking tour. The Hostal is open daily from June 15th to September 15th, otherwise only on weekends.
Exhausted, full and happy, we start the return trip to the coast in the evening. That was certainly not our last hike through the wild solitude of the Garrotxa.
Demanding hike: approx. 5 hours, good condition, hiking shoes, drinking water, picnic and bathing suits required. www.altagarrotxa.org
