Catalan Romanesque – The Vall de Boí
As the cradle of Catalan Romanesque, that Vall de Boí also referred to. Over 1000 years ago, eight small villages and nine Romanesque churches were built in the valley. The seclusion of the valley served as a monument preservation, and some of these churches have remained almost true to the original to this day. Since 2000 they have been part of UNESCO cultural heritage and have become known worldwide.
sort – luck
We take the N260 from La Seu d’Urgell to Sort. Sort means in Catalan Luck. That’s why the whole of Spain buys the tickets there for the annual Christmas lottery. We continue directly towards El El Pont de Suert. The N260 becomes narrow and curvy, winds steeply up the mountains to quickly fall back into deep gorges. Fortunately, there is hardly any oncoming traffic. Shortly after El Pont de Suert we turn into Vall de Boí and drive up to the village Taulle. Here we look for an overnight stay. Unfortunately, there is no room left in the recommended guesthouse Santa Maria. This is how we book next door.
2 churches for 6 people
Taüll has two Romanesque pieces of jewelry on offer. One church is one day older than the other, explains the innkeeper. At that time only 6 people lived in Taüll, he says. why she two churches needed is puzzling. It is still a secret why a competition in church building took place in a narrow valley, beyond all major trade routes and cities, in a barren mountain landscape in the 11th and 12th centuries. Who were the craftsmen, builders and artists who built them and what were the motives? St. Joan de Boí and St. Climent de Taull are decorated with wonderful frescoes. Sacred and mythical creatures determine the series of pictures: a lifan with elephant tusks, a camel – which got lost in the mountains of the Pyrenees… mystical stories – tells in a brilliant color and form language.
The Boí Valley
The places are lined up in the Boí Valley Barruera, Boí, carded, coll, Durro, Erill La Vall, Sarais and Taulle to each other. Elements of the medieval construction based on stone, slate and wood could still be partially preserved in the villages. Two elements stand out in the churches: on the one hand, the strikingly voluminous headpieces and on the other hand the numerous and meticulously decorated bell towers. The frescoes in the Church of San Climent de Taüll (scene of Hell and Judgment) are copies of the originals in the National Art Museum of Catalonia (mnac) can be seen. We solve a ticket for all churches and admire the sacred Romanesque architecture in succession, climb high bell towers, try to unravel the mysticism of the frescoes and are enthusiastic about the carved figures in the church of Santa Eulàlia d’Erill la Vall.
Reservoir Embassament de Cavallers – Aigüestortes
In the late afternoon we take a trip to the Embassament de Cavallers reservoir on the edge of the nature park AiGüestortes. Deep unfathomable blue reflects the sky and mountains. Mountaineers practice on a steep wall. Pale roots protrude from the depths. fairytale land. A little below the reservoir you bathe in the river. The cold mountain water refreshes instantly. Then back in Taüll, finally a cool beer in the shade of the rowan trees next to the church of San Climent de Taüll. The host of the small bar tells enthusiastically
From the change of seasons here in the valley. He doesn’t want to decide when the best time to stay here is. Maybe in June, when the peaks are still covered with snow and the meadows are blooming in the valley? Or is autumn with its golden colors? It doesn’t matter – every time has its appeal. In the evening we enjoy a simple, perfect menu with fresh local products on the terrace of the small bar Sedona in town. The next day we want to leave early in the Parque Nacional de Aigüestortes. Another night shot of the San Clemente de Taüll and an eventful day in a romantic mountain world is coming to an end. sequel follows.
