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Events and Traditions

Christmas cribs in Catalonia – lively and stylish at the El Pessebre de Bàscara

Christmas cribs in Catalonia – lively and stylish at the El Pessebre de Bàscara

“Every year at Christmas, Bàscara turns into a lively Christmas crib.
Here one of those cribs is staged in real and life-size in front of the perfect medieval backdrop,
which one would otherwise decorate at home in miniature for the sacred festival.”

The medieval Bàscara was once on the border of three counties: Besalú, Empuries and Girona. Many rulers tried to take the place.

In IX In the 19th century, Charlemagne handed over the rule of Bàscara to the Bishops of Girona.

Despite many invasions of enemy troops, the fortifications, the church and the remains of the castle have been preserved in Bàscara today. It seems like a miracle that the French troops on their way south only blew up the castle.

Angel in BascaraBàscara is right on the road to France and halfway between

Figueres and Girona. Unfortunately, the N II leads right through the town. On the elegant Plaça Major – off the main road – you will find beautiful houses such as the Cal Ferrer or the Casa Notari – today’s town hall. If you walk through the large gate of the main square, you will find yourself in the medieval Bàscara.

Bàscara XII-XIII cent.

The houses are built of river stones and decorated with medieval arched doors.

The church of Sant Iscle i Santa Victoria stands at the highest point of the village. At the edge of the abyss it rises high above the river Fluvià. Its origin is from Romanesque times (XII-XIII century). The apse was then added. On the north side of the facade, a bell tower was later built on the rest of the former bell wall. The remains of the Bàscara Castle are next to the church. Some of the city walls are still well preserved (XIII-XIV century). Bàscara is characterized by an intense cultural life today: the Tortell (Cake) market every Sunday before Palm Sunday, the Feast of Saint Joaquim on August 19th and the Festa Major of Saint Iscle on November 17th and the Horse and antiques market on the first Sunday of the month are examples of active village life. The spectacle of the living crib every Christmas is now known far beyond the borders of Catalonia.

Scene from the living crib in Bascara

Since 1973 the living crib has been staged in Bascara

The birth of Jesus and the everyday life of Palestine from over 2000 years ago have been staged together year after year since 1973 in the medieval streets and houses of over 300 actors and villagers. The market activity and busy village life of the craftsmen, farmers and traders takes place between stables and houses.

The natural springs, caves, gorges and the romantic vegetation directly on the Fluvià form another picturesque landscape background of the production. Here goats and donkeys graze chickens and sheep, the shepherds and laundresses warm themselves by the fire, and the baby Jesus sleeps peacefully in his manger.

The spectacle of the imagination unites the generations in the village. From old to young – everyone is equally committed to this Christmas production, which attracts more visitors year after year.

Buns and bratwurst on the village square

Last year we also put on fur jackets and boots on one of the holidays, packed gloves and scarf and went to Bàscara around 7:00 p.m. We parked the car in front of the village and trudged expectantly to the Plaça Major. Everything was festively enlightened here and many people were already gathered. You could buy rolls and bratwurst behind the archway of the town hall. Tickets were sold at a stand on the square. Access to the old village was still closed.

Child with geese in Christmas game Thank God we had listened to the recommendations of others and dressed warmly. The Spanish winter can get cold. Other visitors had unpacked their fur coats and quilted jackets and were on the pitch in chatting groups. From time to time, costumed villagers scurried past us.

medieval costume

The Roman soldiers waited for their deployment, and one or the other peasant girl showed up in medieval costume. Then access to the old town was opened. We streamed together to the fairground behind the village.

Here the three shepherds awaited us on high pedestals. Music sounded, spots went on and the announcement began. An angel hovered above the church tower and rejoiced. Then everything sank in the dark and the village was lit up. Here craftsmen and traders acted, played children, cooked the women, and the men palaved the men in the old way by the fire. The silent acting was perfect. The crowd of spectators slowly turned into the alleys and admiringly and photographingly passed the individual “living pictures”. We walked across a market, met awake Romans at the castle ruins, living cows and chickens in front of a stable and a cuddly lovers behind a bale of straw.

We continued down to the river. Here many actors warmed themselves on small fires. The damp cold slowly rose from the floods of the Fluvià. Fog was in the air. The medieval costumes harmonized perfectly with the colors of the night. The river landscape formed the most romantic stage design. There was no better way to get Christmassy than in the Cathedral of the Moonlight Night. The path climbed uphill again into the village. Here, too, people passed the diligent hustle and bustle. Yarn was spun, baskets braided, linen woven, bread baked. At the end you were back on the Plaça Major, and here you could enjoy pastries or grilled sausages, beer and wine.

A wood fire blazed in the inner courtyard of the town hall, and some stayed for a while.

We drove home for our Christmas roast under the Christmas tree. After all, people celebrate internationally today.

More on www.elpessebre.cat

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